Plugged in my PC (RTX 3080) via HDMI 2.1 cable in to port 2 on the TV, and depending on the Hz I set, it was two different problems.
60 Hz introduces input lag, whereas 120 Hz is unusable due to the screen going black every few seconds, and the input logo popping up in the corner as if I’m changing inputs.
When you tested this TV with a PC, were you able to run 4K 120 Hz fine? Has anyone else experienced this issue?
On the above noted monitor with the blue light settings plus using blue blocker clip ons to my glasses, many red fonts have become very faint and hard to read.
So I am considering whether a OLED would be easier on my eyes so I don’t have to use blue light settings and clip on orange blue blockers.
Do you have a recommendations as to brand and if text will be sharp at 48" or even 55" ? Also, I would need a very adjustable monitor arm to make this set up work for me. I have used a 7+ year old 43" Sharp Aquos 4k and it was ok for business use. The fonts were good but the cursor was delayed. I don’t expect cursor delay with new OLED.
Lower the color temperature in your PC monitor settings or in Windows, I’d imagine it would make a bigger difference than clip-ons. You can also get a pair of glasses with blue light blocking lenses, which have minimal impact to visual color accuracy.
As someone who upscales a lot of my stuff, the most noticeable impact of 4:2:0 in movies is in red gradients. Something like a red light, upscaling from 1080p to 4k, is night and day difference. It turns from red blocks to an actual red gradient. But it’s also the same with upscaling 4k to 8k. The red light is still blocks at 4k, just smaller blocks than they were at 1080p.
It’s a huge loss in color detail and definitely NOT lossless. These people are either shilling for the movie industry, or can’t see properly, or like you said, watching from half a football field away.
Yeah I expected it to be one of those problems only unique to me that no one knows how to solve other than by telling me to get the TV or whatever refunded and hope the next model works as it should. I am using a Belkin HDMI 2.1 cable, which is 2 or 3m. I never had this issue with the RU7100 that I had before for my PC, on that TV I could switch the input to anything without any sort of display issue and didn’t require game mode to display my PC’s signal. (Remember I have the 50" QN90A which may have this inhert problem that the bigger versions clearly don’t) I suspect it might have something to do with Samsung’s poor compatitibly for G-sync especailly with older 20 series graphics cards like my 2080ti. And there is no black screen, as soon as I go out of game mode the TV instantly loses the signal and starts loading/waiting for the signal to come back with a loading animation in the centre of the screen. Then when it gives up it displays the ‘check if the power source is plugged in, no signal detected/whatever it says when it doesn’t detect anything. And I really don’t like playing around with the TV to try and get it to work with my PC out of game mode because like I said, each time it loses the signal when I go out of game mode it is permanent no matter what I do. Until I force shutdown my PC and go back into game mode, then turn my PC back on. My PC’s SSHD is really slow so this takes so much time and isn’t healthy to force shutdown a computer often with the power button. Especially for a old SSHD that I regret getting all those years ago lol. I hope that clarifys everything. Maybe someone that works at Rtings like Adam Babcock or someone can at least give me some advice if they have no solution to my unique problem with this TV. I am at least used to getting unique problems that no one can help me with, with all the technology that I own.
when it says no signal, hold the power button on the remote to reboot the TV. I’ve had to do this 10 million times on my Q90R. It doesn’t like losing the video signal, and it’s always a crap-shoot whether it’s going to re-gain the new signal. Alt-tabbing, changing resolutions, refresh rates, dealing with anything fullscreen was a giant PITA.
4k60hz with interpolation is a different interpolation setting, it’s for games. It’s supposed to be low-latency frame interpolation. You can find it in the game mode settings. It’s called Game Motion Plus.
I loved this feature. I used it to play Red Dead Redemption 2 on Xbox One X which runs at 4k 30fps. I turned on Game Motion Plus and it was like a different game. Responsive and smooth, and still detailed. Input lag was barely noticeable compared to without it. It’s only an extra 14ms after all. Best feature ever if you ask me! Everybody that complains about 30fps on consoles can use this.
It seems to have been changed now
But I’m not sure how you can score the C9 so much higher for gaming when the Q90 has much, much better input lag across the board, working freesync, low latency frame interpolation, and no risk of burn in from static GUI elements.
When changing input modes from PC to bluray player or anything else, there is overscan and I have to go into the settings and select fit to screen. It fixes it but it’s annoying to have to do that every time I change input modes.