Ricardinho122

Aug 20, 2024 11:31 AM By brenro

4

Amazon has a warning on their site that this is a frequently returned item. Not a good sign.

Just the 83 inch. I don’t know why Rtings linked the 83 inch in their review if they say the results don’t apply to the 83 inch as it has a different panel.

Feb 27, 2024 03:47 AM By Paulkie99

1

Hi. I am in South Africa, and am unsure whether to get the Hisense 55A8H https://hisense.co.za/products/hisense-55a8h-oled-4k-tv/ or the Samsung S90C. Two things I like about the Hisense over the Samsung is that it supports DV and HDR10+, and it is somewhat cheaper (about $200). However, I am worried about the panel/OLED experience since I can’t find many reviews on the Hisense. Do you have any thoughts/recommendations?

The Samsung supports HDR10+ IT does not have DV, but I find it actually not needed.

I have the S90C and U8H (so, not exactly the same I think), but I will say it will depend on what you want to use them for. Samsung is better for gaming and movies. The Hisense for sports and general viewing. It is still good for gaming and movies, but the Smasung is better, but in sports the Hisense is very superior in my opinion, as the Samsung does not look too detailed to me.

Jan 20, 2024 09:20 AM By Nox-Aeterna

68

I’ve been having difficulty getting audio to sync on this tv. I had zero issues on my q90r. I’m currently using ARC, but I have purchased an eARC receiver to see if it resolves the issue. It does occur over the TV speakers as well. The delay changes depending on the app, anywhere from 40ms with YouTube to 450ms using ANY 4kHDR content. When connecting my PC, the audio is actually BEHIND the video. Which is impossible to fix using tv/avr settings Has anyone else experience this? I do have the 83” version, but I imagine the audio settings are virtually the same.

Are you using the Tv apps? or a device? I only had that problem when using a Firestick.

Oh well, the TV looked great right after the update, but now it looks strange. Like when you play a retro game on an emulator and choose the filter to soften the pixels, very strange. Does anybody has the same issue? It is also present on Game Mode, but not too much. I already checked the settings and everything is how it was before.

Mine got updated to version 1310, and it said it will do something at night so the screen will be clearer, and it did… and the screen is clearer!! I think the colors pop more when they should without overbrightening the rest. Also found the UI more responsive.

I disagree with this. I have both the S90C and Hisense U8, and while the S90C is better overall, being excelllent on gaming, movies, and TV shows, the U8 looks better with sports, giving the fact that very few sports are in 4K and that is the only instance that the Samsung looks a little better, but with normal content from the different TV providers, the Hisense looks way better, everything looks clearer and brighter. I know your rating is based on wide angles more than anything else, but the Hisense is not that bad from the sides either.

Oct 19, 2023 02:18 PM By  Kyle Bartlett

Hi there, Although we do not have a fire stick in office, I would assume this works. It is an HDMI connection, so it should not have an issue. Have you tried adjusting your External Device Manager settings?

Hello, so I found the problem. It works on a Firestick with an update on the Firestick. The Firestick remote now controls the TV, and the TV remote controls the Firestick.

Still does not work as it should on the Cube, because the Cube HDMI CEC is not working, so it will only work through IR. So the Fire remote can control the TV, but the TV remote cannot control the Fire Cube.

Oct 12, 2023 03:21 PM By  Kyle Bartlett

Hi there, I am curious about your setup, what sound bar do you have, and what FW/software versions are you running on (on all devices)? Thanks for the question, hopefully we can get to the bottom of this.

Hello, the soundbar is the LG SPD75A. Everything is updated to the last version. I tried an Xbox One and it is the same thing. Only got Stereo Uncompressed. But if connected directly to the bar, I got everything, Dolby Digital, DTS, Atmos, DTS:X…

It happened after the Hisense got updated. I was never able to get DTS:X, but I was able to get Atmos when choosing Audio Output as Passthrough. Then with the update I only got Atmos if I put the Audio Output on the TV as Dolby Digital Plus. Passthrough did not work, was only getting PCM, even from the apps on the TV. And now eARC does not even work sometimes. I have no sound, so I need to change the Audio output to the TV speakers, before setting it to the bar again for it to work.

Very strange.

Hello, does anybody knows if this work with the Fire devices? I have tried it with a Fire Stick and Fire Cube and cannot get it to control the TV. Amazon is not even on the list of devices for Universal Control on the TV itself.

But The Firestick work on an older Samsung TV, it is just on this one.

Hello, I have a problem with the TV and Xbox Series S. I cannot get the Xbox to output audio on Dolby Atmos or DTS:X, it only show Stereo Uncompressed.

I have tried the TV on Auto, Passthrough, Dolby Digital Plus and no one works.

I can have both audio formats if I plug the Xbox directly to the soundbar, but then I lose ALLM and FreeSync… So I don’t know how to get it through the TV, what setting do I choose? Or is it the TV that is faulty?

Sep 22, 2023 01:56 PM By Skee777

67

I did with the Presets on game mode, like when it says Standard, RPG, Sports and such, if you go to the main menu, you can actually change the settings for each one. You can edit each of the 5 presets and you have 2 Custom slots in addition to the 5 presets.

Oh, for the presets to work you must have in Advanced Gaming options the GAME HDR set to Off.

Sep 22, 2023 12:43 PM By what_isa_username

2

Is there a way to “save” different setting packages? I play a few different games from the same console and would love to have a one button setup to change multiple settings to how i want them when I switch games. I have my receiver saved with certain sound options i can use for each “scene” but didn’t know if I could do the same on this TV and instead of fiddling around everytime i change games/source.

I did with the Presets on game mode, like when it says Standard, RPG, Sports and such, if you go to the main menu, you can actually change the settings for each one. You can edit each of the 5 presets and you have 2 Custom slots in addition to the 5 presets.

I just found out that when Audio Output is set to Auto or Passthrough, the soundbar only gets PCM. I had to put it in Dolby Digital Plus to get Atmos.

Is this a bug that came with an update?

I didn’t have that problem before.

Mine got updated to version 1220, is it the same as 1212.7? as I never got that one, it went straight to 1220.

I have a question, I am really clueless in this stuff sometimes… If it doesn’t pass DTS, but I have my Bluray player connected directly to the Soundbar (which supports DTS), and then from soundbar to TV, will I still get DTS when playing Blurays?

Thanks in advance.

Yes, please compare it with S95C and S95B.

Also I want to know the best setting for sports. I watch it in dynamic, and it starts good, but after some time it gets darker, so how to avoid that.

Mar 22, 2023 10:23 AM By  Dylan Crete

Since Samsung has decided to move the inputs to an external Slim One Connect box, you can place the input box away from the TV. It’s a versatile feature, as you can choose to leave the input box on your table, or you can mount it to the back of the TV or the back of the stand.

Sound great, thanks.

I bought it on Amazon USA just when it came out, in August. The model is: 55U8H

Nov 21, 2022 02:19 PM By i28w2jtg

6

Is there any update on this? I’m wavering whether I should purchase the U8H. Thank you.

Mine got updated yesterday, and it still have those issues. In fact I saw all issues from before still there… They just added an option for Text Calrity or Picture Quality when watching 120Hz content. Changed the Color Tmeperature labels to Warm 1 and 2, Standard and Cool. Added an option to Auto Picture, which seemed to work, and some other things that I cannot remember right now, but the important issues are still there, everything else is the same, so still has banding and posterization, maybe even worse, because I haven’t noticed that much before, still no Dolby Vision gaming on Xbox at 4K; and one thing was worse, all the native apps start the video very pixelated and they take a long time to look good, didn’t have that ptroblem before, everything started sharp since the beginning.

Agree. Last year I tried the U6GR which has a good score here and it is always recommended, but as you see in their same review they said about the colors, and it really looked bad. Faces were red in most modes, except for the sports mode were they were orange. And calibration on that unit is also complicated as it can only be done in the app and much needs to be changed. But still has a pretty good score here. I ended up returning it.

Yes, you can notice it, but it depends on the source and content too. Is like watching in any other TV without the Smooth Gradation option turned on. For instance I checked on an LG and the same banding is noticed with Smooth Gradiation OFF. But this Hisense doesn’t have that option. It is also because it is really bright, if I turn down brightness and backlight it improves. Other TVs are not this bright, so they don’t show this much banding.

I think it is the same with posterization, it is because they set contrast to 100 or close to that, if you reduce that, you won’t have posterization. At least in my case.

But yes, I was really close to return it, just I figured out that it was with streaming sources and low quality content, and that I can tweak it a little for those issues to improve.

Eveything else is pretty good.

Interesting. I will check on my Bluray player. Thanks for the heads up.

Yeah, and sometimes even Dolby Atmos doesn’t work within the Xbox… Sometimes I just get the option to do Stereo, sometimes Dolby Digital and DTS Digital… Really thinking of keeping the TV or returning it. It looks good, but has some flaws, the menus and UI sometimes work, sometimes doesn’t.

I haven’t seen the DV issue.

Aug 29, 2022 03:32 PM By  Dylan Crete

I believe we touch on this in our review (the variant section), but it represents the year. The 2020 model codes have H in the suffix instead of J and J is for 2021!

Oh, great. Thanks.

What is the difference between this and the one that says H1 at the end instead of J03?

I bought the U6HF, so it is the FireTV model. Let me start by saying that what I had previously was the U6GR, the Roku model that came later and was only available at Costco, and for me this was better, I just didn’t liked the Roku thing and the TV had some issues turning on and stuff, so I returned it to Costco, but i had it for almost 3 months to really test it. The image was great, really bright and colorful. I can crearly see that it was 600 nits, wide color gamut and such.

So when I see that a new one and with FireTV instead of Roku came out, I bought it quickly, but as of now I am a bit disappointed as it is not so bright as the U6GR was. This one is darker and when I turn brightness up the blacks go gray. It isn’t very colorful as the other was either. It has VRR but it still flickers in some games on my Series S. It has less options, doesn’t have anything for motion, and color calibration is barebones.

So this TV looks more like the Toshiba M550 than the U6G, at least this FireTV version.

Hello, I would suggest if it will possible to check the antenna too. I placed this TV in place of an other one, the antenna is in the same place, and it got 13 less channels. I did the scan 3 times with antenna in same place, and also tried to change the antenna position, and got the same channels.

I have had 3 previous TV’s in that place and I got more channels with those, and I mean TVs from 2010.

Another thing that maybe checked is the realiabilty of the OS. WebOS in this one is really slow compared to TV’s that have Andorid TV, Fire Tv or Roku.

Fubo for example took almost one minute since I clicked it to when I was able to tune a game.

Feb 03, 2022 02:56 PM By  Dylan Crete

Hey there, Thanks for reaching out. There’s probably a few things you can do to see if your panel actually does support 120hz. A good place to start is by looking at the label on the TV itself. We included a picture of the label for the C350 in our review and you’ll notice it says 60hz. If it says 60hz, then it’s a 60hz panel and therefore can’t do 120hz (in which case there really isn’t much more to check). If it does say 120hz, then you could probably try a few things listed here. Feel free to keep us posted! As for recommendations for TVs under 500, I’d probably suggest checking out the picks in this article and the notable mentions listed as well. Hope this helps! :)

Hello, thanks for your response. Well, I tried the test in testufo through the Web browser right on the TV and it didn’t show 120Hz, but then I read that the browser itself doesn’t support 120Hz, so that might be the cae. Then I also ead that it the HDMI ports are 2.1 but only support 60Hz… So I tried with some YouTube videos that say to put the vide in 2x speed and if it looked smooth it is 120, I did and they looked smooth, I compared with the Hisense U6GR5 by its side and the Hisense was not smooth. So I think it is, plus in spoorts and movies it really looks smooth. Also it has Local Dimming and Vsync, which I was able to test it on the Xbox, so I will keep it.

Jan 30, 2022 08:50 AM By  Dylan Crete

Are you talking about the 4-series 2021? Assuming you are, I think it’ll help to look at this comparison between both models to see how they differ from one another. A big difference is going to be panel types where one has a VA panel and other has an IPS. This makes the ‘Omni’ model better suited for dark rooms thanks to a higher contrast and better uniformity. On the other hand, the IPS panel on the 4-series gives it wider viewing angles and it also has better reflection handling. Of course, there are some other differences you can notice in the comparison, but these are some of the ‘bigger’ ones!

Oh, sorry, I meant the same Amazon brand, but the 4 Series, the one that is cheaper, but on Amazon website the only difference listed is that Omni has Alexa hands free and the ability to connect a camera. They don’t have many specs listed. But I used the comparison tool and found that Omni was a little bit brighter too and better response time.

Hello, maybe you find this useful, but I was playing with the setting through the Roku app and noticed that with noise Reduction on High it has a very noticeable Blur, so I turned it too off and that disappeared. So, I checked the Sports picture setting and Noise Reduction is on Medium… Try setting that to off and see if it improves. This can only be done in the app though.

Jan 26, 2022 03:10 PM By  Dylan Crete

UPDATE We update our unit to the most recent firmware and can confirm that it also now supports HDR10+. We’ll be updating our review to reflect this information in the next few days! :)

Great, I will wait for it.

One question… What things can be added through an update? For example, I didn’t know that support for HDR10+ or any other format can be added with an update and not by physically doing something to the TV…

It looks good for me. At first I found the faces too red and artificial. Then I did the factory reset and it looks better now.

One thing though, it doesn’t have many options because it is a Roku TV and Roku tends to have simpler settings for everything, but you can still get pretty good image quality.

Sure, here are the pics. https://imgur.com/ESKIjn4

https://imgur.com/Lp35DHS

The software version is10.5.2 Build 4096.

Where do I check the firmware?

What I watched were The Tomorrow War and Without Remorse movies.

Well, I just played some Amazon Primer videos last night, and the HDR10+ logo appeared on the TV. So, is it supported now? Or it was only the logo missing?

Thanks for your answer. No worries, I was just wondering because I haven’t actually seen the SPD75A anywhere, so I wanted to know if they are called different.

I do it by pressing the … button on the remote. It should say Dolby Atmos.