Whether you're trying to capture the crack of a bat hitting a homer or the swoosh of skis hitting the slopes, you'll want a camera that can record every moment. Though your smartphone is great in a pinch, and many can even record 4k 60 fps video these days, a dedicated camera can take your sports videos to the next level. When deciding on the best camera, you'll want to make sure it has high frame rate options to capture the action smoothly or add slow-motion flourishes. In-body image stabilization (IBIS) can also help if you're shooting handheld and want to minimize camera shake. Watch out for cameras with heavy rolling shutter distortion, which can be distracting if you find yourself panning the camera a lot. Of course, all of that is moot if the camera's autofocus can't keep up with your subjects.
We've stuck mostly to mirrorless interchangeable-lens models here, with the intended use of filming sports and action from the sidelines. While action cameras are the best choice for POV-style footage, mirrorless cameras have become increasingly video-capable and make for great video cameras to record action from a distance.
We've bought and tested over 115 cameras, and below, you'll find our top camera recommendations for non-POV sports videos. If you're a sports vlogger, you can also look at our recommendations for the best cameras for vlogging. Otherwise, if you need something more advanced, check out the best cameras for videography more broadly or our top 4k video cameras.
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Best Video Camera For Sports
Vlogging7.2Studio Video8.7Action Video6.8Of the cameras we've tested, the Fujifilm X-H2S is the best camera for sports videography. This flagship model has an excellent stacked sensor that keeps rolling shutter distortion to a minimum, making it ideal for sweeping panning shots and fast action. The camera also has plenty of frame rate and resolution options, with 6.2k video recording at up to 30 fps and uncropped 4k at up to 60 fps. It also has a dedicated slow-motion recording mode that records 4k at up to 120 fps, making this a super versatile camera for high-res action footage.
Beyond that, you get internal 10-bit 4:2:2 recording, Apple ProRes codecs for higher-quality video files, and RAW video output to a compatible external recorder, if you need more advanced filmmaking features. Plus, it has an excellent in-body image stabilization (IBIS) system to reduce camera shake when shooting handheld and an excellent battery life. All that to say, this is a seriously capable video camera for more advanced videographers.
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Best Mid-Range Video Camera For Sports
Vlogging7.8Studio Video8.3Action Video7.6If the Fujifilm X-H2S sounds like overkill, the Sony α6700 is a fantastic mid-range hybrid camera. It's one of the few cameras—let alone at this price—to offer 4k video recording at 120 fps. Shooting at 120 fps incurs a crop, but it's still very useful for those who want to capture high-resolution, high frame rate action footage or slow-motion. The camera also has a great battery life, a fully articulated screen, and one of the best autofocus systems on the market, ensuring you rarely miss focus, even with more erratic subjects. However, it doesn't have a stacked sensor like the Fujifilm, so you'll get more rolling shutter distortion with panning shots.
If you want the option to record in 6.2k resolution or output RAW video to an external recorder, the Fujifilm X-S20 is another great choice at this price point. However, unlike the Sony, it's capped at 60 fps in 4k; this is still great for capturing high-speed footage and slowing things down a bit, but it'll be harder to generate super slow-motion clips in 4k. Its autofocus system is also a tad less reliable than the Sony camera's.
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Best Entry-Level Video Camera For Sports
Vlogging8.5Studio Video8.6Action Video5.8If the Sony α6700's price is still too steep, consider the Sony ZV-E10 II instead. As part of Sony's vlogging lineup, it's more pared-down and less versatile than the α6700, with no viewfinder, cheaper build quality, and no in-body image stabilization. However, given it has modern internal recording capabilities, like 10-bit 4:2:2 capture, this model offers a ton of bang for your buck.
While it can only record regular video at up to 60 fps in 4k, it includes a slow-motion mode that captures 4k at up to 120 fps. Though it falls behind cameras with stacked sensors, its rolling shutter performance isn't bad and marks an improvement over its predecessor (our budget pick below). Plus, its autofocus performs remarkably well in video, though its subject detection modes are more limited than the AI-driven AF on the α6700. The biggest drawback here is really the lack of built-in stabilization, but you can still get good results with an optically stabilized lens or gimbal if needed.
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Best Budget Video Camera For Sports
Vlogging8.7Studio Video8.2Action Video4.8The Sony ZV-E10 is our top budget pick. Though it's aimed primarily at vloggers, it also makes for a great general video camera for videographers on a tighter budget. Like the newer Sony ZV-E10 II, there's no viewfinder, and you're still missing IBIS here, meaning you'll need to rely on optically stabilized lenses to get smoother footage when shooting handheld. However, if those aren't dealbreakers, you'll find a lot to love with this camera.
At the top of the list is its fantastic autofocus system. Sony cameras are known for their quick and accurate AF systems, and the ZV-E10 is no exception. It has a fully articulated screen to help shoot at different angles, a good battery life, and no recording time limit. Frame rates are more limited compared to high-end options, but it can still record 4k video at 30 fps, with a slight crop, and 1080p video at up to 120 fps if you want to slow down the action. All in all, this is the best camera for sports videography at this price point.
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Best Cheap Video Camera For Sports
Vlogging6.0Studio Video7.1Action Video7.0If you're looking for something ultra-portable and easy on the wallet, consider the DJI Pocket 2. It isn't just any pocket camera—it comes with a built-in three-axis stabilized gimbal that lets you capture smooth handheld video. It's a great option if you want something lightweight but prefer to get right in the action, as you can keep up with your subjects and still get buttery smooth footage. On top of that, it has an active tracking feature that can automatically follow a subject as they move around.
You get up to 60 fps in 4k, and there's a dedicated slow-motion mode in 1080p for super slow-motion shots. On top of that, it has no recording time limit and a solid battery life. Because it's a small-sensor camera, you won't get amazing video quality compared to the higher-end options mentioned above. The newer DJI Pocket 3 offers significant improvements, including a larger screen and larger sensor, but it's also much more expensive. Ultimately, if you want an all-in-one camera and gimbal& that won't break the bank, the Pocket 2 is still worth considering.
Notable Mentions
- Fujifilm X-M5:
For a highly portable option for sports vlogs, the Fujifilm X-M5 is a great entry-level alternative to the Sony ZV-E10 II. It's notably more compact and features useful features like 6k open gate recording, with frame rates up to 60 fps in 4k with a slight crop. However, it has worse rolling shutter distortion, and its AF isn't quite as reliable.
See our review - Nikon Z 6III:
The Nikon Z 6III is a fantastic camera for video work. It's one of the few we've tested that supports internal RAW recording, with a partially stacked sensor that reduces rolling shutter and plenty of high-speed frame rate options. However, it has worse rolling shutter effect and a slightly less effective AF system than the Fujifilm X-H2S.
See our review - Panasonic LUMIX GH7:
The Panasonic LUMIX GH7 is a fantastic camera for more advanced video work. It offers a plethora of recording formats and options and a class-leading IBIS system, and it's one of the few cameras that captures 4k 120 fps without a crop. That said, it has worse rolling shutter performance than the Fujifilm X-H2S.
See our review - Sony α6600:
The Sony α6600 is a good mirrorless camera for capturing sports thanks to IBIS and its very reliable autofocus system. However, its frame rate options are more limited than the Sony α6700, and the camera is limited to 8-bit recording.
See our review
Recent Updates
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We added the Fujifilm X-M5 as a Notable Mention because of its compact size and excellent video specs for the price.
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We replaced the Canon EOS R10 with the Sony ZV-E10 II as the entry-level pick because it's better suited to action video and has more lens options. We also replaced the Panasonic LUMIX GH6 and Panasonic LUMIX GH5 II with the more recent and more capable Panasonic LUMIX GH7 in the Notable Mentions.
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Aug 13, 2024: We added the Nikon Z 6III to Notable Mentions because of its exceptional video capabilities and removed the Fujifilm X-T4, as it's harder to find now and less relevant for this use than some of our newer picks.
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May 16, 2024: We replaced the Fujifilm X-S10 with the Canon EOS R10 because it has better overall availability, renamed it 'Best Entry-Level Video Camera For Sports' to more accurately reflect the Canon's standing in the market, and consequently moved the Sony α6700 to the mid-range spot. We also renamed the DJI Pocket 2 the 'Best Cheap Video Camera For Sports' and added some information about the DJI Pocket 3.
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Mar 18, 2024: We've removed the action camera pick from the article as we've temporarily paused buying and testing action cameras. We've also renamed the DJI Pocket 2 to the 'Best Pocket-Sized Video Camera For Sports' and added the Panasonic LUMIX GH6 to the Notable Mentions.
All Reviews
Our recommendations above are what we think are currently the best cameras for most people to buy for sports video, according to their needs. We factor in the price, feedback from our visitors, and availability (no cameras that are difficult to find or almost out of stock in the U.S.).
If you'd like to choose for yourself, here's the list of all our camera reviews. Be careful not to get caught up in the details. There is no single perfect camera. Personal taste, preference, and shooting habits will matter more in your selection.
Recommended Articles
Comments
Best Video Cameras For Sports: Main Discussion
What do you think of our picks? Let us know below.
Looking for a personalized buying recommendation from the RTINGS.com experts? Insiders have direct access to buying advice on our insider forum.
- 21010
Have you seen my recent comment about the different performance on s90d? Samsung is very confusing about its panels. Plus, even so, its performance is not the same as s90c, only the HDR that cuts in 1000 nits otherwise it is totally different The rest of the performance corresponds to the rtings site test. You’re focusing only on one thing, don’t forget the s90d has a better processor, better upscale, better low-quality content playback and apparently the numbering behind the tv doesn’t exactly define the panel generation. As a friend here said he has an FA01 and his matches the tests Thank you for that clarification. I still find my C2 with better image processing tho. It could be the contrast that looks better and I’m thinking it’s the image processing. Idk but games look incredible on the S90D
- 21010
No, we haven’t tested the difference between those settings. We always start by making sure that the Auto setting is properly clamping to the correct color space, which the vast majority of TVs do without issue. Once that’s confirmed, we use the Auto setting throughout our testing, since that picks the proper color space depending on the content. We don’t typically use settings like Normal or Native, since any content that falls outside of those color spaces won’t be accurate. The Color Booster setting definitely oversaturates colors, but it’s not nearly as bad as some similar settings on other TVs. We don’t recommend that most people use it, but if you’re someone who likes very vibrant colors, it’s not a bad setting to try out. It’s certainly possible that the Normal setting looks more accurate than Auto + Color Booster with some content, but by forcing all content into that color space, you’re going to get inaccurate colors with certain movies, shows, and games. Thank you that was very informative. One more thing I ended up getting the version tv number FA01 and I saw the same version number on your S90C. Should I follow the testing for the S90C instead of the S90D? I ordered the S90D but the panel I guess is the same as the S90C. I was told the version number correlates with the panel generation
- 21010
We recommend setting the color space to Auto, since that will pick the proper color space depending on the content and gives you the most accurate image. With that said, if you prefer the look of colors when using the normal color space, it’s okay to use.
Ok but the Normal color space looks more accurate in colors on my unit than it does using the color booster option on low and high and with auto color space. Have you guys tested the difference between the 2?
- 21010
I have a question about the S90D Normal color space. Is it ok to us in SDR or HDR because the colors seem more accurate than using the color booster settings that you say might be a good option of you want more saturated colors. So what I’m trying to say is the normal color space looks slightly more saturated than Auto setting but the color booster settings looks even more saturated than the normal color space.
- 21010
I definitely wouldn’t do this is nor recommend it for such a silly reason. Even at 1000nits, the s90d is extremely bright, it shines brighter than the c4 both in movie mode and in game mode, and the same thing as the s90c in HDR, why is this bothering you so much? You even said that she is extremely brilliant you paid over 300 dollars for extended warranty of I don’t know how long it is want to throw down the drain why is that? Sincerely put your head together and think again. And only 200 nits, maybe you won’t even notice the difference, I don’t think losing the warranty will be worth it. I also think I’m noticing the ABL in SDR. I compared my LG C2 side by side with it and there is in some scenes the C2 is brighter. Especially in really bright scenes. LG also got rid of there ABL in a firmware update back in 2023 on the C2
- 21010
I definitely wouldn’t do this is nor recommend it for such a silly reason. Even at 1000nits, the s90d is extremely bright, it shines brighter than the c4 both in movie mode and in game mode, and the same thing as the s90c in HDR, why is this bothering you so much? You even said that she is extremely brilliant you paid over 300 dollars for extended warranty of I don’t know how long it is want to throw down the drain why is that? Sincerely put your head together and think again. And only 200 nits, maybe you won’t even notice the difference, I don’t think losing the warranty will be worth it.
Ya I threw the remote away so I wouldn’t be tempted lol I’m just wicked upset about the GEN 1 panel. But you said the only difference is brightness? Does everything else correspond with rtings test?
- 21010
Well, the reason may be due to cost? I can’t say, maybe sansumg had gen 1 panels made and in order not to lose money they did it, I can’t say the reason behind it. No, I don’t believe it’s like having an s95b even if they both have a gen 1 panel the other things behind the overall performance is not just the panel generation in hdr the s90d is more like s90c where both reach 1000nits an example is that I went to check and the s95b in hdr in game mode in beats 800 and something. Only then do you notice the difference. Apart from the upscale, noise reduction etc that the s90d will certainly be superior by comparisons even if you get a gen 1 then no, I don’t believe it’s the same thing yet the s90d will be superior and it wouldn’t be like it was the same tv with more things behind the TV is not only made of panel. As I said the s90d even with gen 1 panel will have a better Low quality, better upscale and other things. Remember, there are other things responsible for performance, such as the processor. It’s both the gen 1 panel and the s90d are capable of more brightness in hdr mode, maybe Samsung notices this is solved with a simple update, leaving the performance in hdr a little better I am really hoping they fix it with a firmware update. I am tempted to use a service remote to up the brightness but I hate going into that dark of territory when I have a warranty I spent almost 300 dollars on.
- 21010
Do you really think that those who bought the ones manufactured after September only received the gen 1 panel? If this were true there would be much more chaos on the Internet and on sites like this or do you think that only these few people who are complaining bought the s90d? But those who received theirs as expected won’t go around talking or reporting on websites, so you believe that. But it was something that not even the experts here on the site knew about, so the people affected were not such a large number that it would generate something bigger, on a large scale that is talked about all over the Internet, it would generate many more dissatisfied people and a matter of lógico According to this probably a lot more people with gen 2 panels than gen 1 even manufactured after September. As I said and a panel lottery this is not new and in luck. How is it possible to even get a Gen 1? That would be like getting the S95B without knowing it. Right?
- 32120
ah, so even if it’s new I could still get an older panel. Let me ask this then. I currently have an LG CX. I would assume that even if I get a dimmer panel it will still be a decent upgrade in both brightness and color over a CX right?
For the CX? Most definitely. The color brightness and highlights stand out WAY more than regular Woled panels. That’s what’s making me keep it. In regular HDR you will get a brighter image for sure. My C2 only looks brighter when the Samsung displays HDR10+ which there isn’t a lot of content on. But it should be brighter than your CX. I also want to add that the EOTF was fixed in Gen 1 panels. It’s also more accurate out of the box according to rtings S95B test.
Edited 2 months ago: Added something - 21010
And that’s right, I discovered the problem, you were unlucky in the panel lottery and acquired a gen 1 panel, while the one on the site is gen 2, mine that corresponds to the site tests is also gen 2 and apparently there is no gen 3 panel, this is the second generation of sansumg panel, the first was with the s90c There is no s90d with 3rd generation panels, only 1 and 2, even though it is not my problem, I was restless and wanting to help, now you know the problem. It’s interesting, until the experts know about it, I hope they see why they can better instruct people.
Where did you purchase your TV from and what region are you in?
- 21010
Is there a TLDR version about this nerfed brightness thing? There’s been dozens of comments on this and I haven’t been able to follow as I am strongly considering buying an S90D once tax returns come in. So it’s just a panel lottery thing? Is there a way to guarantee I don’t get a gen 1 panel that’s not as good?
I ended up just keeping mine. I use it only for regular HDR content and HDR gaming and it’s bright enough for a dark room. You have to look at the version number either on the back of the panel or on the side of the box. It either says FA01 for a 1st Gen or FB03 or FB01for a 2nd Gen.
- 21010
Ya i feel like it was all the Black Friday deals lol. This is annoying. I hate exchanging TVs. Always feels like I’m going to break them when setting it up. That stand was kinda annoying to put on. I don’t even have one in right lol but it’s stable
- 21010
Idk but I googled it and it confirmed it was Gen 1. This is crazy this is the S95B panel I believe
- 21010
No I think this is a damn Gen 1 panel I will definitely change it out tomorrow. What the hell 😩 I’m gonna personally go to Best Buy and ask them
- 21010
It says FA01 /S90D/S90DB-Q55DB1/ 171
- 21010
One question: does the model of the 3 of you who said that your s90d only reaches 900nits correspond to the same model from the rtings tests? QN65S90DAFXZA (QN55S90DAFXZA) and 77 inches (QN77S90DAFXZA These are the S90D models compatible with the review on the website, if your S90D does not match, it does not apply to the review on the website, apparently you should have paid attention to this at the time of purchase, as apparently the S90D with a different ending than the FXZA does not correspond to the tests on the website. The TV corresponds to these models and numbers, if not. So, that’s the problem, there are two types of s90d, and apparently it’s a panel lottery, each with a performance you can check behind the TV or in the smartthings app Of course, those who bought in the USA, so we will know if the numbering is different, there are probably two commercial models of the s90d and each with a performance, now this is even more difficult to identify in other parents, check if it matches. If we don’t find the problem lottery panels
Yes the model ends with FXZA on back of tv and I confirmed it on the smartthings app. There’s been multiple people on Reddit that have been having the same issue. I even did a pixel check tho I couldn’t make out of my panel was Gen 2 or Gen 3 because there is a very similar pixel structure. It looks just like what ratings posted for there pixels so it is definitely a QD OLED
- 21010
Not even with the active tone mapping do you notice a difference? If that’s the case, your TV may have a bad panel, unfortunately you were unlucky in the panel lottery. There are movies that really are quite dark like betlejuice plus change the mapping to active and not notice the difference in the dark and troubling scene. Even though it’s a very dark movie, are the light scenes dark too?
Yup. It’s only HDR10+ not regular HDR. I notice a difference with regular HDR content.
- 21010
Yes I have checked it’s irritating. HDR10+ is even more dim. I’m watching venom on it and it just looks awful. I had to go watch it on my C2. 😞 even with active tone mapping it doesn’t do a thing. The brightness doesn’t change at all.
- 21010
Well, if you’ve already confirmed that your panel is QD OLED, I particularly think that samsung can solve this simply with an update correcting what is happening on your s90d. I would not particularly recommend you to do this after the warranty is something important but it is your TV do what you think is best. Why can you just change it and still not notice the difference because even though your s90d has a higher brightness than your c2 you say you don’t notice a difference. So you take that risk and lose the warranty. Why your s90d is brighter than your c2 even at 900nits and yet you say it’s the same. So you can change there not notice the difference and you will have already lost your warranty. Is hdr brightness bothering you that much? Or is it something else disturbing the head? Why 900nits is still quite bright and superior to c2 and equivalent to c4. I’m just a tv fanatic and I wanted something that would be a noticeable improvement from my C2. I keep thinking is to why it’s so important watching content but in reality I really got this tv for gaming and the colors do blow the C2 out of the water. I just feed into all the negativity and it drives me insane. Samsung was no help. They said it’s between 900 and 1200 nits but 1200 would be on dynamic mode which I know is a crock of shit. So they were no help. I guess I could wait a year for my Best Buy warranty to kick in after Samsungs warranty expires and have them take a look at it. Idk. I just hate exchanging TVs. What’s the repercussions of using a service remote? How would it damage the TV?
- 21010comment deleted
Ya I’m just going to keep mine. The pixel structure taking a pic on a white screen and zooming in shows that it is definitely QD OLED. Highlights get brighter and color volume is definitely higher but the overall brightness in HDR is definitely on par with my C2 unfortunately. I don’t want to get a worse TV exchanging it. When gaming tho it’s definitely brighter. I set the contrast to 48 and -1 on the ST2084 and I got the Xbox to calibrate it to 1000 nits. I just ordered a service remote so I’m going to change the brightness to 1200 on there. Screw my warranty lol
- 21010
Have you guys determined yet if it was the firmware update is the reason that caused the S90D to decline in brightness? I’m exchanging mine but have time to cancel it. I put my LG C2 up to it and the only difference is the color volume and saturation. The peak brightness looks the same. I compared Dolby vision the HDR10
Edited 2 months ago: Added something - 21010
Intriguing why this 900 nits performance is the performance of the panel woled while the 1200 nits of the qd-oled panel. In a reddit post, the comments that the s90d hit 900 nits said that its panel was woled, not qd-oled, post, the performance of the panels are different.
This is what I thought but my pixel structure says it’s QD OLED I’m exchanging my out anyways
- 21010
Ya it definitely is triangular and has green ant the top. there’s different pixel structure depending on what Gen panel you have. Gen 2 and 3 look very identical. Im thinking about exchanging it for another one but I don’t want to end up getting something worse. And I also don’t know how I would like a slightly over brightened image in game mode.
- 21010
As I said, I believe that people who are worrying about this are worrying too much. Adam himself said that these tools like Xbox’s are not accurate and I don’t believe it really says how much his dashboard can achieve. That said, just set it up right and be happy. Don’t leave it with so many nits, that’s certainly not necessary. As adam said, don’t focus on numbers, just on experience, and take advantage of it, since these tools are not accurate.
It’s accurate on my LG C2 tho so I don’t understand what’s wrong. I checked the pixel structure of my panel by taking a picture on a white screen and it looks like I have a gen 2 panel layout of pixels when I believe the S90D is supposed to have a Gen 3 panel.
- 21010
Don’t worry, here is for everyone, we talk. I’ll test it later, as he said, but I saw in the settings of some very famous youtubers calibrators and the hdr10+ they left it in basic, also not disabled, maybe I lost something, I don’t know.
I was in HDR calibration mode and I turned the peak brightness off and it made it clip at a greater brightness up to 2500 to 2800 like something crazy. So this just tells me that the calibration tool is messed up or something is wrong with the peak brightness setting or it’s the ABL of the TV.
- 21010
So come to find out if I turn the TV peak brightness off it makes the calibration brighter and I’m getting up to like 2300 nits. This has to be the aggressive ABL that’s messing with the calibration.
- 21010
When I tested everything matched the settings you said. Apart from hdr10+ which is in basic post I saw a setting on YouTube that said the correct thing to be like this. And the standard that Xbox gives as an example was uniform for me at 1200 nits more or less above 1000 nits, I did the test at 900 as others reported and the image was clearly still showing the squares and lines and at 1000 it was still possible to see it too. However, I can test again with hdr10+ Not being in the basics if you want to know. Would this be the correct configuration? Hdr10+ disabled?
I know you’re replying to someone else but I turned off HdR10+ and it turns off game HDR. Not sure why that is
- 21010
Samsung said it can reach 1200 nits with maximum settings on like with contrast enhancer. I don’t believe that. It definitely gets brighter with that on though. It’s also for gaming on console and most people don’t even game with 1200 nits of peak brightness so I guess you’re right I should just keep it. Some people say, they reduced the brightness to make it more the EOTF more accurate. Active tone mapping is extremely close to Static now and it’s a bit brighter. When I did it dynamic tone mapping on my C2 it was way to overbrightened and ratings did say there S90D is slightly overbrightened so I probably wouldn’t like it that way
Edited 2 months ago: Added a word I left out - 21010
In fact, I saw some people complaining about it, but it seems to me a small group. Different from what you said about many people and I walk in a lot of forums I don’t think they should change the analysis, since most of them correspond to their tests, right here you saw two people complaining about it, you and another guy. So I believe that most are working properly as well as mine I believe that these numbers on xbox or ps5 are not accurate and do not correspond exactly with the peak brightness that your TV can reach in hdr maybe you are worrying too much. It would be different if someone took the test with professional equipamento Let’s wait for adam with new information and see how their unity is. Remembering that adam will probably test with a professional equipment and not by xbox or ps5 I believe.
My C2 is accurate when calibrating with the Xbox series X that’s why I’m like wtf is going on. I only have until the 14th to return mine and idk what to do 😔
- 21010
There’s lots of people reporting the same loss in brightness with S90Ds purchased within the past 3-4 months. A potential 15% loss in brightness isn’t a minor discrepancy. The newer S90Ds appear to be barely reaching 1000 nits or even below, that’s essentially the exact same performance as the cheaper S90C from the previous year, it’s a significant downgrade from the stats reported here and elsewhere of managing to maintain 1200 nits in a 10% window. Respectfully, without an update to the review, It’s potentially misleading to people purchasing the tv based on the reported performance metrics, just to then get a tv that is performing worse. Would it be possible to test an S90D from within the past few months, or maybe reach out to Samsung on why the newer S90Ds appear to be not getting as bright as the ones from earlier in the product run?
I Put on active tone mapping. Honestly it’s just as accurate and it does not over brighten the image like on the LG C2. It looks really good. Then put color booster on Low or high
- 21010
It’s pretty simple. Put it on a white screen and zoom in on the phone near the screen and take a photo afterwards and just zoom in on the photo. If you see it in a triangular shape and definitely qd and also see the blue pixel.
Its hard to make out but it kinda looks like the QD OLED picture structure I see online
- 21010
What would I see if I didn’t see triangles
- 21010
I’m honestly not sure how to test it like that. I took a picture and it looks to me like they’re quantum dot colors. Looks totally different than my C2. There’s also a pinkish tint when I take a picture as well.
- 21010
Thanks. I was just curious. I only have a console but may switch to a PC eventually. My worry is that my Xbox is clipping brightness at 900 nits and my 55” U.S model S90D checks out as an QD OLED. It has the FXZA on the back and if I go into the tv information it says the same thing so I’m taking it as the nerfed the brightness?
- 21010
I honestly think there is a lot of confusion going on because Samsung doesn’t specify their panels, I believe there are people with woled panels and I believe they are qd-oled so it is hitting 900 nits because it is woled and not qd oled I saw several reports that I saw that said that the Xbox calibrated at 900 nits said that its panels are actually woled and not qd-oled as here in the rtings. And the people who confirmed that their panel is QD OLED have tested and everything is not having the same problem is everything working properly as the rtings tests. I believe that this may be the problem People with woled panels that they believe to be qd-oled.
My Xbox is calibrating it at 900 nits and everything on my tv checks out that it’s a QD OLED it’s 55” and it has the FXZA on the back of the TV. This is a U.S model. The highlights get super bright and so do the colors
- 32120
According to the HGIG calibration on My Xbox series X it calibrates brightness at 900 nits in HDR. Is this accurate?
- 21010
Hello have you guys retested the 1440 p at 144hz on the S90D QD Oled? I heard it was having problems but you put N/A next to it in your input lag testing?
Edited 3 months ago: Spelling error - 21010
Why does my LG C2 appear to have better contrast than my S90D?” TV? Or is it because there’s to much contrast on the C2? I did a side by side comparison and it also seems like the C2 has better image processing.
- 21010
The S90D
- 21010
Yes, I figured out my own question lol I do have another one though. I am really used to the LG C2 accuracy when it comes to the HGIG. is the over brightness in game mode on the S90D that noticeable? I know when using Dynamic tone mapping on the LG C2 in game mode it over brightens the image. is it that bad on the S90D?
- 21010
How accurate is the HDR tone mapping on the S90D compared to the Static setting?
- 21010
Ok is it that much overbrightened that it’s noticeable in dark scenes? I have the TV and I own a lg C2. The DTM on the C2 highly overbrightens the imagine in game mode. I don’t really see that on the S90D
- 10-11-1
Hi on the S90D, Will the shadow detail option get rid of the over brightness in game mode?
- 10-11-1
I just got the S90D and I only see 2 HDMI ports. The other 2 look like USB ports? I couldn’t plug my Xbox or PlayStation in them