Tested using Methodology v1.2
Updated Aug 09, 2023 01:37 PM
Tested using Methodology v2.0.1
Updated Apr 29, 2025 01:46 PM
Sony 42 A90K OLED
LG C4 42 OLED
The Sony 42 A90K OLED and the LG 42 C4 OLED are both 42-inch OLED displays. The C4 is the better option for most people, as it has a slightly higher refresh rate and gets brighter. However, the Sony is still a good option if you can find it for less and don't mind the reduced brightness.
Sony 42 A90K OLED
LG C4 42 OLED
Comments
Sony 42 A90K OLED vs LG C4 42 OLED: Main Discussion
What do you think of these products? Let us know below.
Looking for a personalized buying advice from the RTINGS.com experts? Insiders have direct access to buying advice on our insider forum.
It appears your sound generator (noise floor) is different between both firmware versions/tests you’ve run. That can effect not only how sound prorogates to your microphones but also how Apple’s firmware is prioritizing what frequencies to use energy on.
I think the more important question is; Which one is correct? It should follow the baked-in metadata.
It’s probably just a slight EOTF difference. …I mean it is slight, right? We’re not talking greater than or less than 20-30 cd/m2?
The model is the Q60R and Q70R. So it would actually end in ATXXH.
Anyway, once you reach 50" it is very unlikely for Samsung to use a IPS panel.
The models you listed should have a VA panel.
Buy from a store you trust. That way you can return if there are any problems.
Entire TV is metal spray painted except for the tiny bit at the bottom that covers the Power and Logic boards.
Source: I disassembled it.
They measured with a White & Black screen instead of a checkerboard pattern.
Checkerboard is the correct way especially for a display that has Full Array Local Dimming.
Sony X900F would be your best choice.
But to be honest I don’t think you will notice it on the M-Series.
I would buy the M558-Gx it has 90 local dimming zones and the picture quality is pretty darn good.
As long as they don’t mess up software updates it’s a beautiful TV right in the middle of the price bracket you mentioned. - Especially if you can find it for Black Friday prices ($479).
The Q60 did not impress me over the M558. And the Q70 is very overpriced for what you get.
Edit: That is of course unless you need 120Hz, then go for the RU8000 55" or Q60 55".
The device was Dolby Vision certified (I would assume).
What about contacting Dolby and telling them one of their partners are selling a high end product that is broken?
https://i.imgur.com/Uk7Qa4h.jpg
If you wondered why they have the Q60R and the RU8000 that are basically the same I think the answer is they needed a different price tier.
I have to unmount the TV to grab a picture of the power supply. I forgot to take a picture of it during the initial teardown.
Personally I did not change the max backlight intensity. When I get to popping the back off again I’ll post back (the darn thing has so many clips holding it on).
Note: Anything you do is at your own risk, Samsung could change components or software updates could brick things…etc…etc. This is why I’m not posting a guide or anything.
That’s the workaround I posted on reddit and here. After a software update on my M558-G1 it stopped working.
You shouldn’t have to beg Vizio back for features.
I’ll post pictures of the boards tomorrow, but you take a picture of every service menu item then switch the model.
You need to keep the HDMI order, LVDS and some other things the same.
55" works with 120hz. Gsync over freesync is buggy leading to black flashes.
TV has other major issues or rather it deviates significantly from the review though.
Thank-you
I read the post, it was a quick reply to prevent you from buying a smaller model - just in case you had the 49 or 43 in mind.
I didn’t mean to ignore your original question.
I’m actually looking for the info too, and I’ll post back if I find it. This year is a really hard year to find a decent smaller TV that has all the features of the larger models in the lineup.
You need to buy 55" or larger to get 120Hz.
Anything smaller and you’ll only have a 60hz panel.
The TV has a issue picking the correct black level. I doubt the EOTF (gamma) is that off from the factory that you would notice it.
Go into settings and toggle between Low and Normal for HDMI Black Level.
The setting is in “General > External Device Manager > HDMI Black Level”
Tap test works too. Wait for there to be a semi-dark image on the demo unit and tap the screen. If there is NOT a white flash your pretty much guaranteed it’s a PLS or IPS variant.
Edit: 49" RU8000 is still VA if anyone is looking. As for the 49" Q60R, I havent a clue.
I wouldn’t touch the backlight. You risk cooking the power board and/or LED’s.
I don’t have a picture of the Pixels but I did stick a i1d3 on it and got a contrast ratio of 1200:1-ish [SDR PC Mode. So no auto-dimming].
Also below is a entire imgur gallery of a 43" Teardown that includes the panels (internal) sticker.
https://www.rtings.com/tv/discussions/smNj8kt9m1Bg-h7N/qn43q60rafxza-vba01-teardown
I’m in North America (US) and the 43" I received had a PLS panel too … you know what I disassembled the thing I’ll post the entire picture set in a few hours.
There is one plus side for this model, it takes almost any resolution you throw at it. And its being scaled on the Display, not GPU. - I’m currently running 3840x1920, 3072x1728 and 2880x1440.
You can even crank the controller to 120 Hz but sadly the panel does not support it and will drop frames.
The 42.5" is a IPS panel and has other issues; the Samsung (sadly) is better).
Furthermore after calibration you’re lucky to hit 200 cd/m2.